Corrosive ammo how long

If you wanted to dissolve salt in the kitchen, would you use vegetable oil or water? Therefore, we need to get that out first.

A foaming bore cleaner is also acceptable. Push a dry patch through with a jag when your barrel is sufficiently clean always push patches and brushes from the chamber to the end of the barrel.

The next step is to wash out the corrosive salts left by the corrosive primers. This is done simply by soaking your firearms parts in hot water or by pouring boiling water down the bore of your rifle if submersion is not ideal. Boiling water is ideal as it evaporates quicker. This step can be particularly tricky for semi-auto rifles because you need to thoroughly clean the gas system as this is where most of the corrosive salts will reside.

My recommendation is to not shoot corrosive ammo in Direct Gas Impingement DGI rifles like the AR, as disassembling the gas system is a massive pain. However, for short stroke gas piston rifles like the SKS and the AK, this is not too difficult to accomplish as these gas systems were designed to field strip easier. Make sure to pay special attention to the bolt face and bolt carrier group as there are lots of little nooks and crannies that corrosive salts can sneak into.

There are some gunsmiths who recommend soaking in water combined with CLP or Ballistol. These oils will both clean and lubricate your firearm parts after you remove them from the water, eliminating the need to dry your parts off. Every time I fired corrosive ammo in my Mosin Nagant, I simply used hot water or Windex to clean off my rifle parts.

To put it bluntly, this is just silly. You can use Windex to clean your firearm parts and bore, but make certain it is the unscented, original Windex with actual ammonia in it some new versions use an analog. Water can corrode your firearm just as fast as corrosive salts can, therefore the next step is to displace all of that water we just introduced into our gun.

If you used the water-Ballistol or water-CLP mixture in the previous step then you should be good to go. Whichever lube you use is completely up to you. Regardless of which you pick, liberally lube your gun parts to ensure that all of the water is displaced by gun oil. As mentioned earlier, corrosive ammo is typically military surplus. Reducing the cost of shooting for an added step in cleaning is worth it for many shooters.

Furthermore, it has sufficient accuracy at this price point. Surplus ammo is also very shelf stable and is typically packed for long term storage in spam cans or battle packs.

Lastly, the primers are extremely reliable. These primers have been proven to be incredibly stable and reliable under demanding battlefield conditions as well as remaining effective during long term storage. The biggest negative aspect of corrosive ammo is the added cleaning steps. If your firearm is not cleaned properly after firing, then it will look like the bad end of a sewer pipe in no time. Another downside of corrosive ammo is that it is not suitable for reloading. As most military surplus ammo is Berdan primed, this makes it extremely difficult to reload.

Furthermore, most all Russian ammo is steel cased which cannot be reloaded either. Lastly, corrosive ammo, and specifically military surplus ammo can become the victim of regulations on import-export laws.

Since the s, commercial ammo manufacturers began selling their ammunition with non-corrosive primers to avoid all of the downsides of corrosive ammo. Here are some of the major benefits of using non-corrosive ammo in your firearms.

Non-corrosive ammo is typically Boxer primed, this means that reloading is a breeze. If you like to reload your ammo like me, then this is critically important when purchasing new ammo because you want to reuse the brass casings.

Another benefit of non-corrosive ammo is that there are tons of different manufacturers to choose from. Winchester, Hornady, PMC, Federal, Remington, Speer, and American Eagle are just a few of the companies that produce non-corrosive ammo and each of them have their own unique offerings to cater to your shooting needs. Lastly, there is ample supply of non-corrosive ammo available across North America. Military surplus ammo is typically tied to import laws and restrictions, meaning government interference can cause supply and demand issues for military surplus ammo.

This is not the case for domestically produced non-corrosive ammo. Although there are ample reasons to purchase non-corrosive ammo, there are some negatives that we need to address as well. The first being cost — non-corrosive ammo is always going to be more expensive than corrosive ammo.

Although many shooters do not mind the added cost, some sportsmen are on a limited budget, and this is something to take into consideration. Another negative of non-corrosive ammo is the potential for corrosion of the cartridge case itself. Shortly after the invasion, he had invented a gadget that cleaned rust out of a rifle barrel in a few seconds whereas it used to take a man about twenty minutes. Sergeant Welch did it merely by rigging up a swivel shaft on the end of an electric drill and attaching a cylindrical wire brush to the end.

He just stuck the brush into the gun barrel and pressed the button on the drill; away she would whirl and in a few seconds all the rust was ground out. The idea was turned over to other ordnance companies. The biggest factor is humidity. If the rifle is stored in an area with really low humidity then the bore won't rust for a long time. In a high humidity area you will notice rust pretty fast.

Pee has ammonia in it. What is called corrosive ammo isn't actually corrosive in and of itself. There are salts in the primer compound that are hygroscopic. That is, they attract moisture from the air. It's this moisture that causes corrosion so humidity is the primary factor in how long till corrosion sets in. The salts cannot be neutralized, all you can do is dissolve them and flush them out. Depends on the local huminity, if you shot it in the desert, i doubt it would rust untill it rains in the winter.

If you shot somewhere in the Pacific islands during world war 2, it would start rusting right away. Read Dunlop's "Ordance went up Front", he said he never saw a M1 shot out, but saw hundred's ruined due to rust in the barrel.

The M1 carbine is the only US arm used in the world war 2 that used non-corrosive ammo, all the rest would cause rusting. The conditions were quite foggy and my poor barrel was already showing signs of corrosion within about hours after shooting around 50 rounds. When i got home and cleaned my gun 2 days later it was already pitting and pretty much ruined. She still shoots but not like she use to. Lesson learned the hard way i suppose. I always bring a little bottle of Hoppes and a bore snake to clean the bore at the end of the shoot and now always have a nice and clean barrel.

Some use Windex to eliminate the corrosive residues prior to cleaning with gun solvents. Buy a new I know when I picked it up at the dealer it was in pristine condtion.

Called remington and apparently the finish is not covered under their warranty. My older seemed to like water, and this new one was shipped dry with absolutely no oil anywhere, just a dab of greese on the trigger assembly. So your answer is, less than three days since I did not put any corrosive ammo on the outside of my new so I would expect corrosive ammo would corrode much faster than that. I live by the beach, and I've seen faint rust spots show up within minutes of washing my AK down in the shower after shooting corrosive yugo.